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Extreme East

From coast to coast…

My challenge was to cross Canada from coast to coast on my trusty bike… Well, it’s done !  But it’s not over yet !…

Here is the story (mostly in pictures) of the last weeks of peregrinations in Newfoundland.

Friday 30th July.
From Eastport to Dildo, 212 kilometres.

After a few days in Eastport Organics, I am teleported at lightning speed to the beautiful little village of Dildo thanks to the good care of my market gardener James and his pick-up truck !

Dildo.  This name comes up a lot in this region!  I discovered that it was the name of a piece of a boat…
The good thing about travelling is that it teaches us a lot about the world and opens up our horizons !

When I arrive in a new place, I always find a café-resto or the local microbrewery.  There’s no better way to reconnect with people.

Sitting at Dildo’s microbrewery, I didn’t sit alone for long…

 

My new friends from Dildo!

A nice gang invited me to spend the evening with them and to play cards in their ‘bed & breakfast’ Georges House B&B where the owner, Todd Warren, welcomed me kindly on his property for the night !  In the morning, he had prepared a good breakfast for me, thank you !  All thanks to these two beautiful couples…  Once again, well fed and well rested, I was able to continue my journey to St. John’s.

 

Saturday 31st July.
From Dildo to Brigus, 52 kilometres.

Sunday August 1st.
From Brigus to Paradise, 60 kilometres.
I am welcomed in the home of truly extraordinary and soul-nourishing people.

Monday 2nd August.
From Paradise to Quidi Vidi, 27 kilometres.
I arrive in St. John’s for a few days.
And once again, I am welcomed with great generosity by Bernadette and Maurice who show me around, offer me hikes, stories and good food !  Once again, thank you for this welcome filled with generosity and the pleasure of sharing good times !

From Newfoundland, I will remember, of course, the beauty of the landscape and the sea.  But much more: the warm humanity of the Newfoundlanders !
I had the chance and the privilege to meet joyful, generous and mature people and believe me it did me a lot of good!

Finally a fish !

While waiting for a place on the ferry that would take me to Nova Scotia, I lingered and spent a few days in St-John’s.
But bad news: no room for me on those big boats until late September !?!…  As they say: ‘I missed the boat!

In the last few months, my plans have often changed…  Once again I have to adapt and find a nice solution…  That’s good for the brain !
And you know what !?  I’ve figured out how to get there.
I just have to get there.  To get back on the road, to discover other coasts, to better leave and continue…
It is really to be followed…

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Eastport Organics

I am tired.  And I’m hungry.

Lines everywhere…
Natural, manufactured, organic, like paths traced more or less ephemeral, to be left behind, to be followed to the end or not, to be cared for in order to better harvest…
Like life itineraries that one must leave, that one wishes to accomplish or that one can change…

The salty air, the breathtaking landscapes, it’s all very nice… but you have to eat too!  If I want to keep going, I need good gas in the machine !  Super grade without pesticides !

As much as water was a problem during the crossing of the Grandes Prairies, here it’s not the water that’s missing, but I have a certain difficulty to get the food that I like !

A decision is made: go along the coast by the sea OR head for the city…  Because I am hungry for fruits and vegetables, which are unfortunately not easy to find in the small villages.
So, the city wins !  Direction Gander and then Eastport…
Eastport is not really a town, but I found an organic vegetable garden in this small village: Eastport ‘Organics’ !

After more than 200 kilometres, I arrive at this farm…  Of which only one man takes care, accompanied occasionally by some people passing by.  A young German woman, Corine, is there for a few weeks to help Jason on this beautiful farm !  And I’m going to stay there too, the time to help and recharge my batteries.

If you would like to spend some time there, working in exchange for good, fresh, healthy meals and also having fun in this wonderful place, you can contact Jason at Eastport Organics and he will be happy to welcome you!  He needs a lot of help !  And this is a beautiful part of the country !

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Fogo Island

Visit to an island at the end of the world… Fogo.

“I found my treasure island. I found it in my inner world, in my meetings…” – Hugo Pratt

I have a few dis-eases to confide in you…

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New World Island

Sleeping on a new island.

Before bedtime, a short video.

Before continuing my journey to Fogo Island, I was attracted by ‘the New World Island’ !  How could I resist the novelty !  And I did well to make this diversions by going north, I discovered Twillingate and a park with an evocative name: the Dildo Run Provincial Park (the ‘dildo’ being a piece of boat, you knew that right?!).

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Radio silence

Can you get lost on an island?
Who is on an island…

My bike, well loaded, the brakes worn out !

After my ride in the Gros Morne park, I realize when I get my bike back that I have almost no brakes left !  The only bike shop in this area, before the big city of St-John’s, is 115 km away.
Luckily, a nice cyclist I met recently on the road offered to take me there with her car and I accepted with great happiness, as I could not see myself getting stuck on the hills without brakes !

It’s always nice to meet another cyclist !
Among other things, to share the beauty of the landscapes…
… and to have a friendly break.
Thank you Sarah for the bike and car ride !

Then, the next day, radio silence in my being… !?!
On the road, all the paths are difficult and some are blocked !… So I have to make detours towards the highway and that extends my route of a good 35 kilometres.

From Corner Brook to Deer Lake, I meet many obstacles…
… and must make several detours that extend my route by highways.
After the 75km of unforeseen events, taking a break in a microbrewery and observing the people is welcome !
… before hiding behind this table to recover from the day.

The detours imposed over the last few days have forced me to remain in solidarity with myself and have brought me even more to the centre of my solitude as a road rider; even if these moments of silence are greatly appreciated, I feel more at home in the cycling event than on a Bixi ride !

136 kilometres of endless road… perfect for being in silence with myself.
In the evening, my lodging is often very different; like in this village where everything was on the gravel !
I always find a little corner for my sleep. On the other hand, the lack of variety of fruits and vegetables weighs on me because healthy food is hard to find in these remote places.
See where my country camp was actually located !

After a few days and more than 300 kilometres, I am still happy to be back in civilization with this arrival in Lewisport and this welcome in a beautiful yellow house filled with sun !

At the end of long days, a house and a welcome of dreams !

I realise as I make this stop that I have no strength left…
My body and head are tired. My tinnitus has increased and is making an incessant buzzing in my head. The light, the sounds, the smells, the wind have become unbearable.

I was offered accommodation and it was greatly appreciated!
I will be able to rest here, on the sofa in the entrance.

A sofa will change my tent.

Then a neighbour comes to welcome me, I try with all my being to wake up, it is not easy. I don’t want to show my exhaustion, I still want to get to know these people who are rich in history and full of goodness !
Let’s go for a little evening in the port with these lovely people !  Sailing is the main subject !

The marina of Lewisport.
The Newfoundlanders are really warm people.

I had planned to take a rest day, then to go on my way…
But I linger; a wonderful woman offers me supper, offers me her car to go grocery shopping, and shares her story and her husband’s incredible story with me !
I am so surrounded and absorbed by these people that I don’t realise my energy is waning as it demands so much of my attention.
In between these meetings, the need for silence is becoming more and more apparent…
And finally I will need four days spent inside myself and away from the outside world, resting here on the sofa in the hall. How lucky I am to be able to take a break from my nomadic journey! How good the people are to me !

The call of the road, always…

Every evening my luggage and my bike are ready to go, but in the morning when I wake up it’s impossible to leave. Have I gone too far ?   Have I pushed my body beyond its limit ?   Will I finally be ready to ride again tomorrow morning ?   I want to so much… No choice, tonight again to rest my head and let go of this questioning…  If this journey is to end, then I will have accomplished a major challenge and learned to recognize my limits more.  Good night Julie…

My faithful mount, which carries me, activated by the Heart…
… which, by dint of the Beauty and Goodness I have encountered, transforms and beautifies me !

But you know. I’m back on the road, of course !
It seems that my legs are stronger than my head !
But the solitude of the journey has been joined by an air of simplicity…
Pedalling would be enough for me.
Even if deep down, in order to share better, I would embark you all on a one kilometre long tandem-totem pushed or braked by the winds of this Great Country…  Just to hear your breaths in the effort and your cries of joy on the way down !

My trip is not over yet.  Newfoundland is made up of countless islands around an island and attractive peninsulas overlooking an infinite sea…
Next step, Fogo Island and its mythical hotel…

Thank you for continuing to follow me, to read me, to motivate me.

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Gros-Morne Hike

Hiking in Gros Morne National Park.

A bit of hiking, it’s a change from the pedal !

Shortly after my arrival on the island, on a beautiful day, I had the opportunity to hike the Gros Morne National Park.

I love the mountains as much as the road and this place was a longstanding wish because of its reputation. As they say, it’s a ‘must’!
And if you go to Newfoundland, and especially if you arrive by boat from Blanc-Sablon, for sure, Gros-Morne is waiting for you!

It is an exceptional place because of its landscapes, its geology, its telluric energy! I hope you will meet him, he is like a giant of the Earth and the Sea.

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A New Found Land

Here I am at last ! Newfoundland !  The New Promised Land !
Since 2019, I have been dreaming of coming back…

Arrival on the island.

I arrived on a rainy Friday night; I put my tent in a small park in the port of my arrival, the village of Sainte-Barbe, the north-western gateway to the Newfoundland peninsula.  And I fell asleep with the sound of the waves and the whales’ blowing… Wow ! Finally a new sea !

A very ‘marine’ weather!

Saturday morning, it rains non-stop, but I get on my bike, too excited to discover this new road. I’ve been riding for two hours and I haven’t seen anyone, not a vehicle, nothing…

Few roads cross the peninsula.
The road of the Vikings, those discoverers before history.
Almost deserted road, omnipresent sea air.

I ask myself: am I the last human on earth ?
What a strange sensation, this mixture of solitude and freedom…
And this coastline, so different from the North Shore and even more so from the west coast of British Columbia! Only the road, the horizon of the sea, a little vegetation, no big forest.

Typical maritime landscape.

I end up arriving at a mini village. The inhabitants welcome me with open hearts. A lone woman on a bicycle arouses a lot of interest. Sitting quietly at the local convenience store to dry off a bit, a good man buys me a hot dog !

Civilization on the horizon !

The rain has finally stopped and after 160km on my bike, I arrive at Arches Provincial Park. A beautiful sunset awaits me there, it’s fabulous ! I set up my solo tent and quickly fell asleep. My first day was a blast !

The Arches Provincial Park.
… like a little rock with a hole in it!

Next destination: Rocky Arbour, located in the heart of Gros Morne National Park.  The road between this park and Rocky Harbour is smooth. The smell of the sea, of flowers after the rain and of conifers intoxicates me. I feel an intense joy to be on this impressive island !

In the distance the Gros Morne… not so dull !

As I am so close to the Gros Morne Park, I take the opportunity to go for a hike that is popular with many hikers.

Waiting to participate in the interview with Pépito Live Costa Rica, I ended up at the ‘Out East Adventure Center’ youth hostel where for 20$ I could pitch my tent and enjoy the nice facilities.

This corner of the country, despite its sometimes undeveloped, bare and wild appearance, is full of natural and human resources !

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Between two vessels

I get off the ferry, I am in Blanc-Sablon.
I have 8 hours before the next ferry leaves for Newfoundland…

Labrador is not far away and I really want to visit and see everything!
I see on the map the little village of L’Anse Amour…
What an inspiring name!
Who doesn’t want to know about love!?
And after the ‘love handles’ there is Anse!
I want to go there.  Go !… on the bike, while wishing me to come back in time not to miss my crossing to the promised New Earth !
Once there, I take a few moments to say a beautiful prayer.
A prayer in the name of all, for all, so that the Love of Self may manifest itself in the heart of our lives…

While waiting to be answered, I have to return quickly to the port. I pedal so fast that I am exhausted, I have miscalculated my time and it is raining so hard! Luckily, a man stops his car and offers to carry me to the boat! Wow, what kindness and what luck! Along the way, he tells me about his part of the country and I realise that I would have spent more time there…
Labrador, I’ll be back…

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Going East

My departure from Quebec City (in fact from Lac-Beauport) to go in one go to Baie-Saint-Paul was like the shooting of an arrow towards a distant goal, but long visualized!  I experienced the first stage of this long journey eastward as a renewal that I wanted to celebrate upon my arrival in Baie-Saint-Paul.

Each hill, each climb, each descent of these beautiful Charlevoix mountains were like moments of transition towards a new, much softer reality, that of a solo journey, in total freedom.
And it all started in a big way with the long Saint-Joachim hill, when we left the beautiful and historic Côte-de-Beaupré.

The famous Saint-Joachim and Cap Tourmente coast!
It’s not the Rockies… but it goes up and down… constantly!

The uncertainty of undertaking this other part of my challenge solo was replaced by the pleasure of discovering myself fully as an accomplished, solitary and assertive woman.

I rode hard!  I did days of 100, 120, 150 kilometres…
And the kilometres I rode paid off with exceptional encounters filled with kindness and generosity!

Everywhere, all along the River Route, the beauty of nature.
No matter what the temperature, the scents perfume the road.
My bike in rainbow colours!

From Quebec City to Baie-Saint-Paul, then to La Malbaie to Tadoussac and finally to Les Escoumins.  Where a close friend, her daughter and her mother offered me the privilege of sharing the comfort of their cottage, not to mention the most important, the comfort of their presence…
Because I left the companion of the beginning of my journey.

In my big canoe! ‘Tiguydou backpack’ i’m going to Tadoussac!
Phew!… I pedalled a bit to find my friends!
The happiness of the reunion. How good the fire will be…

Yes, it’s really another energy that drives me. The demonstration of knowing that they are present (even virtually) makes me feel safe and helps me so much in the pursuit of this healing adventure.  So does the support of the GoFundMe donors and all the people who follow me via social networks.

The endless horizon carries me and feeds me.
Moving forward relentlessly while trusting in Providence.

After their hospitality and a certain amount of rest, I knew I would have to set off for the North Shore, far from my loved ones, to reach Sept-Îles with a certain urgency…

50th Parallel! And right in the Heart of Me.

Given the changing sanitary conditions, who knows if I will have to do a quarantine to reach Newfoundland?  No choice.  In fact, I am in a hurry and I take the boat that will take me to the port of Blanc-Sablon.

Being at home, everywhere. To be comfortable only in oneself.
Take the boat so as not to sink…
On the Croisette, I crossed myself!
From Sept-Îles to Blanc-Sablon. The maritime villages of the North Shore.

Throughout this crossing, I fall in love with wonderful villages, inaccessible by road, that I am shown around and that leads me to think, to think that I would live this experience of life in an isolated land.  Who knows, a little later, in a few years…  It’s ‘La Grande Séduction’!

One of those unique villages that the river connects with its tides.
The desire to believe… in a simple and united life.

These 72 hours on the boat rock me and heal, I feel, my wounds from the past… On my arrival in Blanc-Sablon, I feel fully alive again, it seems that my luggage, my burden, is no longer the same…

Would it be time, one day, to leave my ‘barda’ on the edge of the quay?…
Another shore awaits me…
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